The first time I visited the Mambilla Plateau was during an annual ritual with my beautiful wife. Simple pleasure had been our primary intent on that occasion and we gleaned the scenic beauty of that luxuriantly green, undulating stretch of God’s wonder.
I returned.
This time, however, the mission was different, as was the partnership. It was time to push the limits and pay close attention to details, a task which required, but isn’t limited to, patience and machismo. To help me achieve this was Patrick, an acquaintance and a compulsive traveler. We set out with a clear objective: scale the heights, beam a searchlight on the Sapphire Mining fields and relate our findings to the geology.
Permit me some self-indulgence. I am a damn good driver. I can beat my chest to it any day. Even at that, the thought of navigating heaven-wards unto the towering heights left my mind in two halves. Fortunately, Patrick turned out to be the dare-devil behind the wheels. He has, according to his account, travelled across continents. Indeed, my driving credentials would pale into insignificance when placed next to his. I was rest assured I had chosen a competent ally for the task ahead.
The odyssey commenced from Abuja with Patrick manning the wheels of a Toyota fore-runner. Our route took us through Keffi, Akwanga, Makurdi, Gboko, Buruku, Zaki-biam, Wukari and Takum and, by dusk, we stopped at Beli, having been on the road all day. At Beli, we met with unusual hospitality. Neither hotel rooms nor guest houses were available to quarter in. We inevitably had to settle for a dingy, cockroach-infested 1.5 by 2 metres room gifted us by a good Samaritan, our six-inch mattress covering more than 90% per cent of the floor space, meaning there was barely enough room left to stretch our aching legs. But it was better than nothing at all.
Coming from diverse backgrounds but sharing similar geological and mining experiences, in Patrick and I was a convergence of a passionate commitment to a common cause and a burning quest for self-validation. For forty-eight hours, we both lived on the fringes, far removed from the boundaries of mortal comfort zones. We risked it all, blazing new paths and wading through barely beaten ones, pushing precariously further, deeper into treacherous terrains. While we bumped along, I had fleeting recollections of the legendary Cliff Hanger, a movie I loved as a teenager.
Early the following morning, just before the break of dawn, we set out again, navigating narrow, serpentine, winding roads which led to Nguroje, the summit. As we neared the heights, Patrick, vastly travelled, expressed doubt over similitude of the zenith to Mont blanc, a Swiss destination he had previously visited. Our endurance levels were remarkable. I think we overdid ourselves, having no idea where we had drawn the extra strength and testosterone from. Sheer curiosity and premonitions of what lay ahead was the incentive that spurred us on, surprisingly adapting ourselves well to the grim conditions. Though without gills, it seemed to me that if we had had cause to go underwater, we would breathe still!
The truck chugged along obediently, alternating between the first two gears, and groaning from the effort of ever pushing slowly upward. We chattered ceaselessly, there being nothing else to do and sights of interest never in short supply. As we dodged around riveting spikes of basaltic rocks, Patrick lapsed into a momentary silence. Then I noticed his critical position began to gradually alter as we put more distance between us and the base. It shouldn’t be long now, I thought. Having covered a few more miles, voila, we were finally at the summit and welcomed by the grandeur of sprawling, lush-green, prairie grass over multiple sequences of rolling hills. We spilled out of the vehicle quicker than usual, doors left ajar. Patrick’s breathing came in quick, short spurts. The spectacular sight seemed to have knocked the winds out of his sails. He was stupefied, no more awe-struck than I was. This sight was profoundly staggering, so heavenly! God’s presence literally resonated all around us. Can an unbelieving mortal turn up here without a change in belief? Surely, only a Superior, Omnipotent entity had the wherewithal to conjure up and craft such outdoor beauty? We both stood transfixed in awe while we took in the scenery. It suddenly came to mind that no one had spoken a word since we hit the top, so I nudged Patrick to jar him to reality, just in case he was far gone. Only then did he utter the first word “wow!”
Moments passed before the shock settled. We quickly engaged the services of bike men and rode for Mayo-sina, the mining site and a distinct community, complete with makeshift settlements and trades associated with the business.
Geologically, the Mambilla Plateau is underlain by basement complex and volcanic rocks extruded from fissures of tectonic lines containing pyroxenes, amphiboles and free quartz. The sapphire mining is undertaken with the use of rudimentary implements like diggers, shovels, head pans etc. Nigeria’s sapphire is known within different basaltic localities around the central and eastern regions. Within this area, the mineralization seem to be alluvial in occurrence. The overburden profile consists of a thin lateritic cover, followed by clayey layer. The host section is a highly weathered gravely, pure white quartzitic member.
The stones of top, nice, large, uncommon quality, boasted great form and clarity, came in hues of orange, red, opaque and blue. According to a report by Oruonye, E. D, investigations have shown that from a microscopic study of the internal features performed at the Gemological Institute of America Laboratory in Bangkok, Thailand, it contains significantly lower Iron from those expected of other basaltic deposits around the world. This lower Iron content generates excitement for gemologists and traders, because, it is less likely to develop greenish or grayish appearance, after fashioning, which translates to a higher market value. However, the more sought-after is the saturated, royal-blue variety which, in its raw, uncut state, is valued between N150,000 and N170,000 per carat.
Other locales for sapphire mining on the plateau include Mayo Ndaga, Lekitaba and Santiye. Besides ornaments, sapphire is also used in electronic chips and, due to its perceived mystical potency, spiritual purposes in India. Over the years, popular export destinations for Nigerian Gemstones have been Bangkok and Malaysia.
Though sapphire mining on the plateau is still undertaken on an artisanal scale, it, nevertheless, holds huge economic prospects in terms of both potential mineralisation and geo-tourism appeal.
Then came time for us to leave: the moment neither of us looked forward to. Schooled but humbled by the experience, we descended the high peaks with silent bouts of nostalgia. Descent was relatively easier. As we rolled down the incline, we were preoccupied by thoughts of the organic and pristine environment. By our tour’s end and in true acquiescence to the spirit of environmental conservatism, I ensured that we took nothing but photographs and left nothing but footprints.
Abdulsalam Lukeman Omuya is an award-winning geologist and geo-tourism guide. He specialises in field exploration geology and solid minerals’ feasibility studies’ appraisal. His explorative exposés on the geologic and mineral potentials of Nigeria, with a view to helping the public appreciate the viability of investments in the sector. His innovative ideas have found part expression in the popular earth science magazine, ‘The Rock Post’, where he also serves as Editor-In-Chief. He still indulges actively in countless geologic expeditions, mainly across Nigeria. He lives in Abuja, FCT with his wife and children.